Do you have to stand up to be a surfer?

When I was in seventh grade I decided I wanted to be a surfer.  I knew nothing about it other than my dad was a long boarder back in his prime and that all the kids that did Jr.Guards were surfers.  I remember wanting to be in it sooo bad.  The kid that sat next to me in T.A. was always drawing pictures of waves and talking about it. Then my mother told me I would have to enter frigid ocean water at the crack of dawn.  I decided I'd go a different route- meaning I decided to wear everything Roxy, Rusty, and Hurley possible.  I even owned the pucca shells for a couple seasons.  All my friends were wearing cute "Wet Seal" clothing while I was sporting the boxed t-shirts and board shorts.  I don't know what it was exactly, but I just loved the idea of surfing.


The next year I went to Maui with my family and friends.  Our family friends knew the owners of HONOLUA SURF CO and so we had the great experience of learning how to surf from one of the owners. I think I stood up twice.  It was on a long board but I LOVED the feeling.  I came home and got distracted by life and kind of put the surfing thing on hold (since I didn't even own a board) but I never really forgot about it. I'd watch Blue Crush over and over again and ask myself why I wasn't trying to get out there.

Since then I have had few, but memorable surf experiences.   I have gone in my local beach backyard Newport a couple of times (and hated the freezing water) and I surfed in Santa Catalina, Panama with the locals and some guys from SonRise Surf Ministries.  Although I often get 'pushed' into the waves I am quite proud of myself when I begin to 'pump'.  Some people might not be able to picture little monkey me riding-but maaaaaan I tell you its such a good feeling standing up! This past November I gave it a shot again in Hanalei Bay, and there I was pushed into the waves again. This time I was too nervous though, and didn't do so well.


I now own both a board (soft top little baby guy) and a 4/3 Rip Curl F-Bomb wetsuit (that takes forever to get on) but I can say they haven't been put to use that often....sigh.... why is the idea of surfing so much easier than actually doing it?


So the big question is, when do I get to gain the bragging right "I am a surfer?" Am I two years away? Or two months?  Reading Surfer and Surfing  magazing and watching fuel tvmakes me a spectator, but by no means a surfer... but I like to think somewhere deep down I can eventually master the skill. Lets be honest, being called a surfer isn't neary as cool as the actual feeling of being out there, just you and God and the waves...  One day, I'll make it but for now, I am just going to keep on watching, and pray that I learn some new surfing tactics in my Hanalei home.

 Call me a poser if you want, but I belong to both Christian Surfers and Surfrider Foundation and I think they are both awesome organizations aiming to make this world a better place.